LUNA BELT BAG

 

Make yourself your very own little Moon! Whether enjoying a summer night out in the city, vacationing at the seaside, or just running errands, this raffia bag can become your new favorite summer accessory. It’s stylish and trendy, and at the same time practical and multi-functional.

The bag is of a comfortable size and has enough room for a phone, wallet, and other small necessities. You can wear it with your favorite belt as a chick version of a fanny pack, as a clutch, or add a handle and transform it into a small crossbody.

 
 
 

YARN

  • Ispie Raffia (100% cellulose rayon; 4.4oz/125g, 273yds/250m)

  • The bag used up exactly 1 ball

  • You can use any other raffia, but the needed yardage might differ. Possible substitutions: King Cole Raffia, Ra-Ra Raffia from Wool and the Gang, Premier Home, etc.

  • You’ll need more yarn if you’d like to make a raffia belt or a handle

HOOK

  • 2.5 mm (US B/1 or C/2) or size needed to fit the gauge 

GAUGE

  • 22 sts and 27 rows in 4”/10cm in Camel Stitch, steam-blocked

NOTIONS AND SUPPLIES

  • Stitch markers

  • Tapestry needle

  • Scissors

  • 1 magnetic clasp (for the sample bag: appr. 0.55”/14mm in diameter)

  • Sewing thread in matching color

  • Belt (optional)

FINISHED SIZE

  • Length 7.5”/19 cm

  • Height 4.9”/12.5cm

  • Width 1.5”/3.8cm

 
 
 
 

Notes

  • The stitch used in the pattern is a variation of Camel Stitch, changed to get additional fabric stiffness. Links to video tutorials are included in the instructions.

  • A goal when making this bag is to create a really dense and sturdy fabric. I recommend crocheting very tight with the hook of a smaller size than recommended by the yarn manufacturer for extra stiffness.

  • First, a rectangular front part and a rectangular back part with a semicircular flap are made. Then the sides and the bottom of the bag are crochet, simultaneously connecting all the pieces in one.

  • It’s very important to steam-block the parts of a future bag before connecting them together. If using an iron, be sure not to touch raffia. It’s better to do this through a piece of cotton fabric.

  • A decorative chain stitch is added at the seams of the finished project for a bag to hold the shape more stiffly. If you prefer your bag to be softer, skip these directions.

  • The pattern has additional instructions on how to make a raffia belt and a handle.

ABBREVIATIONS

ch - chain
R - row(s)
RS - Right Side
WS - Wrong Side
sc - single crochet
sc2tog - single crochet 2 together (makes -1 stitch). Insert a hook in next stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop (2 loops on a hook).
Insert a hook in next stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop (3 loops on a hook). Yarn over and draw yarn through all 3 loops on a hook.
sl st - slipped stitch. Insert a hook in next stitch, yarn over, draw yarn through stitch and the loop on a hook in one motion
st(s) - stitch(es)

POSSIBLE STYLING OPTIONS

 
 
 
 

Pattern

 

First, a rectangular front part and a rectangular back part with a semicircular flap are made. Then the sides and the bottom of the bag are crochet, simultaneously connecting all the pieces in one.

 
 

FRONT PANEL

Ch 40sts.

R1 (RS, Set Up): ch 2 (counts as 1sc).
Look at the back of the braid-looking chain stitches under which you’d usually insert a hook. Find the “bumps” that form the WS of these stitches. Insert a hook into a first bump and make 1 sc. Repeat until the end of the row = 39 times total. This will bend the braid forward to the RS, creating the base for the look we want.

R2 (WS): ch 2 (counts as 1sc). 
At the top of your work, find the braid-looking top of the row under which you’d usually insert a hook.
Look at the WS and find the row of “bumps” formed by sc stitches right under the braid. Insert a hook into the bump and make 1 sc. Repeat until the end of the row = 39 times total. The braid is bent forward to the RS again.
Video tutorial: https://www.instagram.com/p/BzqrqKoHlK1/

R3 (RS): ch 2 (counts as 1sc).
Find the braid-looking top of the row under which you’d usually insert a hook again.
Look at the WS and find the “v”s that form the base to the top row. Insert a hook into the right leg of a “v” and make 1 sc. Repeat until the end of the row = 39 times total. The braid is bent forward to the RS once more.
Video tutorial: https://www.instagram.com/p/By5wwW8HnK7/.

Repeat R2-3 for 14 times:
R4,6,8...-28 (WS): as R2. Ch 2 (counts as 1sc), 39 sc into the “bumps” of the top row.
R5,7,9...-29 (RS): as R3. Ch 2 (counts as 1sc), 39 sc into right legs of the “v”s at the back of the top row.

There have to be 28 rows + chain base. Then make one more WS row.
R30 (WS): as R2. Ch 2 (counts as 1sc), 39 sc into the “bumps” of the top row.

Attach one more strand of raffia. Crochet the next row, holding two strands together.
R31 (RS): as R3. Ch 2 (counts as 1sc), 39 sc into right legs of the “v”s at the back of the top row.

Cut yarn. Steam-block the panel to shape it into an even flat rectangle. 

BACK PANEL

Make exactly as the Front Panel until R30 (inclusive). Do not attach a second strand.
R31 (RS, as usual): Ch 2 (counts as 1sc), 39 sc into right legs of the “v”s at the back of the top row.

Cut yarn. Steam-block the panel to shape it into an even flat rectangle. 

BAG FLAP

NOTES:

  • All stitches here have to be made according to the Camel Stitch directions above: into right legs of the “v”s of the top row stitches on RS, and into the “bumps” of the top row stitches on WS

  • 40 stitches of the top row (R31) of Back Panel are used as a base for the semicircular Flap. It’s crochet from the center towards the edges with the increases in every RS row.

  • It is crucial to maintain the correct stitch count for this part of the bag in order to get a symmetrical flap.

  • To make counting stitches easier you might attach several stitch markers to the top row (R31) to mark blocks of every 5 or 10sts.

At the WS of Back Panel count 18 sts to the left from the usual beginning of the WS row (top right corner). Attach the yarn and start crocheting to the left from this point.

R1 (WS): 4 sc into the “bumps” of the top row stitches #19, 20, 21, 22. Turn the work to RS.
R2 (RS, into the “v”s): 1 sc, (2 sc in next stitch)x 2 times, 1 sc. Turn.   //6sts in a row
R3 (WS, into the “bumps”): sc2tog the first stitch with the top row stitch #18; 4 sc; sc2tog the last stitch with the top row stitch #23. Turn.
R4 (RS, into the “v”s): (2 sc in next stitch)x 6 times. Turn.   //12sts in a row
R5 (WS, into the “bumps”): sc2tog  the first stitch with the top row stitch #17; 10 sc; sc2tog the last stitch with the top row stitch #24. Turn.
R6 (RS, into the “v”s): (2 sc in next stitch, 1 sc)x 6 times. Turn.   //18sts in a row
R7 (WS, into the “bumps”): sc3tog  the first stitch with the top row stitches #16, 15; 16 sc; sc3tog the last stitch with the top row stitches #25, 26. Turn.

R8 (RS, into the “v”s): (2 sc in next stitch, 2 sc)x 6 times. Turn.   //24sts in a row
R9 (WS, into the “bumps”): sc2tog the first stitch with the top row stitch #14; 22 sc; sc2tog the last stitch with the top row stitch #27. Turn.
R10 (RS, into the “v”s): (2 sc in next stitch, 3 sc)x 6 times. Turn.   //30sts in a row
R11 (WS, into the “bumps”): sc2tog the first stitch with the top row stitch #13; 28 sc; sc2tog the last stitch with the top row stitch #28. Turn.
R12 (RS, into the “v”s): (2 sc in next stitch, 4 sc)x 6 times. Turn.   //36sts in a row
R13 (WS, into the “bumps”): sc3tog the first stitch with the top row stitches #12, 11; 34 sc; sc3tog the last stitch with the top row stitches #29, 30. Turn.

R14 (RS, into the “v”s): (2 sc in next stitch, 5 sc)x 6 times. Turn.   //42sts in a row
R15 (WS, into the “bumps”): sc2tog the first stitch with the top row stitch #10; 40 sc; sc2tog the last stitch with the top row stitch #31. Turn.
R16 (RS, into the “v”s): (2 sc in next stitch, 6 sc)x 6 times. Turn.   //48sts in a row
R17 (WS, into the “bumps”): sc2tog the first stitch with the top row stitch #9; 46 sc; sc2tog the last stitch with the top row stitch #32. Turn.
R18 (RS, into the “v”s): (2 sc in next stitch, 7 sc)x 6 times. Turn.   //54sts in a row
R19 (WS, into the “bumps”): sc3tog the first stitch with the top row stitches #8, 7; 52 sc; sc3tog the last stitch with the top row stitches #33, 34. Turn.

R20 (RS, into the “v”s): (2 sc in next stitch, 8 sc)x 6 times. Turn.   //60sts in a row
R21 (WS, into the “bumps”): sc2tog the first stitch with the top row stitch #6; 58 sc; sc2tog the last stitch with the top row stitch #35. Turn.
R22 (RS, into the “v”s): (2 sc in next stitch, 9 sc)x 6 times. Turn.   //66sts in a row
R23 (WS, into the “bumps”): sc2tog the first stitch with the top row stitch #5; 64 sc; sc2tog the last stitch with the top row stitch #36. Turn.
R24 (RS, into the “v”s): (2 sc in next stitch, 10 sc)x 6 times. Turn.   //72sts in a row
R25 (WS, into the “bumps”): sc3tog the first stitch with the top row stitches #4, 3; 70 sc; sc3tog the last stitch with the top row stitches #37, 38. Turn.

Attach one more strand of raffia. Crochet the next row, holding two strands together.
R26 (RS, into the “v”s): sc2tog the first stitch with the top row stitch #39; 70 sc; sc2tog the last stitch with the top row stitch #2. //72sts in a row.
Cut the yarn.

Return to the beginning of R26 and attach two strands of raffia there.
R27 (RS, into the “v”s): sc2tog the first stitch with the top row stitch #40; 70 sc; sc2tog the last stitch with the top row stitch #1. //72sts in a row.

Cut one strand of yarn. Steam-block the panel to shape it into an even flat semicircle.

SIDES AND BOTTOM 

  • Right side, bottom, and left side of the bag are crochet as one stripe. It will connect the front and back panels that have already been made.

  • Place the wrong sides of rectangular parts together. The starting point will be at the upper right corner on WS of the rectangular back panel - where the live yarn from the flap was left.

  • All stitches here have to be made according to the Camel Stitch directions above: into right legs of the “v”s of the top row stitches on RS, and into the “bumps” of the top row stitches on WS

 
 

RIGHT SIDE

Pick up the yarn at the flap.
Each side row is connecting first stitch of the back panel and last stitch of the front panel from the corresponding rows if counting from the top. For ex., for R3 we use the 3rd row from the top of the back and front panel.

R1 (RS, into the “v”s): 1 sc into the first stitch of top row of the back panel (st#1); ch 5; 1 sc into the last stitch of top row of the front panel (st#40). Turn.   //7sts in the side row
R2 (WS, into the “bumps”): sc2tog the first stitch of the side with st#40 of 2nd row of the front panel; 5 sc; sc2tog the last stitch of the side with st#1 of 2nd row of the back panel. Turn.
R3 (RS, into the “v”s): sc2tog the first stitch of the side with st#1 of 3rd row of the back panel; 5 sc; sc2tog the last stitch of the side with st#40 of 3rd row of the front panel. Turn.

OPENING FOR THE BELT

Sample bag has 1.5”/4cm wide openings for a 1.25”/3cm belt. You can adjust this size according to the width of your belt by changing the number of repeats.
If you’d like to make a clutch or a crossbody, skip directions for R4-12 below and continue crocheting these rows in the manner described for R2-3 above. Then go to R13.

R4 (WS, into the “bumps”): sc2tog the first stitch of the side with st#40 of 4th row of the front panel; 5 sc. Turn. //6sts in the side row
R5 (RS, into the “v”s): ch 2 (counts as 1sc); 4 sc; sc2tog the last stitch of the side with st#40 of 5th row of the front panel. Turn.
R6, 8, 10, 12 (WS): as R4, but with 6, 8, 10, 12th row of the front panel, correspondingly.
R7, 9, 11 (RS): as R5, but with 7, 9, 11th row of the front panel, correspondingly.

End of an opening. Continue crocheting a solid side.

R13 (RS, into the “v”s): sc2tog the first stitch of the side with st#1 of 13th row of the back panel; 1 sc in the first stitch of the side once more; 4 sc; sc2tog the last stitch of the side with st#40 of 13th row of the front panel. Turn.   //7sts in the side row
R14 (WS, as R2, into the “bumps”): sc2tog the first stitch of the side with st#40 of 14th row of the front panel; 5 sc; sc2tog the last stitch of the side with st#1 of 14th row of the back panel. Turn.
R15 (RS, into the “v”s): sc2tog the first stitch of the side with st#1 of 15th row of the back panel; 5 sc; sc2tog the last stitch of the side with st#40 of 13th row of the front panel. Turn.

Continue in the manner of R14-15 until all 32 rows (31 rows + chain base) of the front and back panels are worked through. There have to be a total of 32 rows in the side panel, ending with a WS row.

BOTTOM

Bottom rows are connecting corresponding stitches of chain bases of the front and back panels. For ex., for R3 we use stitch #3 of chain bases of both the front and back panel if counting from the right corner.

R1 (RS, into the “v”s): sc2tog the first stitch of the bottom with st#1 of the chain base of the back panel (this stitch was already used in R32 of Right Side); 5 sc; sc2tog the last stitch of the bottom with st#1 of the chain base of the front panel (this stitch was already used in R32 of Right Side). Turn.  //7sts in the bottom row
R2 (WS, into the “bumps”): sc2tog the first stitch of the bottom with st#2 of the chain base of the front panel; 5 sc; sc2tog the last stitch of the side with st#2 of the chain base of the back panel. Turn.
R3 (RS, into the “v”s): sc2tog the first stitch of the bottom with st#3 of the chain base of the back panel; 5 sc; sc2tog the last stitch of the bottom with st#3 of the chain base of the front panel. Turn.

Continue in the manner of R2-3 until all 40 stitches of chain bases of the front and back panels are worked through. There have to be a total of 40 rows at the bottom, ending with a WS row.

LEFT SIDE

Each side row is connecting last stitch of the back panel and first stitch of the front panel from the corresponding rows if counting from the bottom. For ex., for R3 we use the 3rd row from the bottom of the front and back panel.

R1 (RS, into the “v”s): sc2tog the first stitch of the side with st#40 of 1st row of the back panel (this stitch was already used in the last row of Bottom); 5 sc; sc2tog the last stitch of the side with st#1 of 1st row of the front panel (this stitch was already used in the last row of Bottom). Turn.   //7sts in the side row
R2 (WS, into the “bumps”): sc2tog the first stitch of the side with st#1 of 2nd row of the front panel; 5 sc; sc2tog the last stitch of the side with st#40 of 2nd row of the back panel. Turn.
R3 (RS, into the “v”s): sc2tog the first stitch of the side with st#40 of 3rd row of the back panel; 5 sc; sc2tog the last stitch of the side with st#1 of 3rd row of the front panel. Turn.

Continue in the manner of R2-3 for 20 rows total. Stop after completing R20 (a WS row).

OPENING FOR THE BELT

If you’d like to make a clutch or a crossbody, skip directions for R21-29 below and continue crocheting these rows in the manner described for R2-3 above. Then go to R30.

R21 (RS, into the “v”s): 1 sl st; 5 sc; sc2tog the last stitch of the side with st#1 of 21st row of the front panel. Turn.
R22 (WS, into the “bumps”): sc2tog the first stitch of the side with st#1 of 22nd row of the front panel; 5 sc. Turn. //6sts in the side row
R23 (RS, into the “v”s): ch 2 (counts as 1sc); 4 sc; sc2tog the last stitch of the side with st#1 of 23rd row of the front panel. Turn.
R24, 26, 28 (WS): as R22, but with 24, 26, 28th row of the front panel, correspondingly.
R25, 27, 29 (RS): as R23, but with 25, 27, 29th row of the front panel, correspondingly.

End of an opening. Continue crocheting a solid side.

R30 (WS, into the “bumps”): sc2tog the first stitch of the side with st#1 of 30th row of the front panel; 1 sc in the first stitch of the side once more; 4 sc; sc2tog the last stitch of the side with st#40 of 30th row of the back panel. Turn.   //7sts in the side row
R31 (RS, into the “v”s): sc2tog the first stitch of the side with st#40 of 31st row of the back panel; 5 sc; sc2tog the last stitch of the side with st#1 of 31st row of the front panel. Turn.
R32 (WS, into the “bumps”): sc2tog the first stitch of the side with st#1 of 32nd row of the front panel; 5 sc; sc2tog the last stitch of the side with st#40 of 32nd row of the back panel.

Do not cut yarn if you want to add the decorative chain stitch to make the bag more stiff.
If you prefer your bag to be softer, cut the yarn and proceed to the Finishing.

DECORATIVE CHAIN STITCH

I recommend adding a row of slipped stitches crochet in two strands of raffia over the seams of the bag that require extra stiffness. They are marked with the grey lines on the image below.

 
 

1. Edge between the Back Panel and the Flap.

Attach one more strand of raffia at the place where the live yarn from the Left Side was left. Start crocheting on the RS, holding two strands together.
Insert a hook near the start of the last row of the rectangular Back Panel and make a slip stitch (sl st). Continue a chain of slipped stitches along this last row, inserting a hook near approximately every/every other stitch.
Do not cut yarn at the end of the row.

2. Right Side with an opening for the belt.

With the same yarn, crochet a chain of slipped stitches over the top row of the Right Side.
Then go down along the edge with the Front Panel; at the border with the bottom; and up along the edge with the Back Panel.
Once you reach the top row of the Right Side again, go down along the second edge of an opening for the belt.

Cut the yarn.

3. Left Side with an opening for the belt.

Attach two strands of raffia between the Flap and the top row of the Left Side. Follow directions for the Right Side above.
Cut the yarn.

FINISHING

Weave in ends.

Sew a half of a magnetic clasp closer to the outer semicircle on the WS of the Flap. Sew a second half to the center of the RS of the Front Panel.

Steam-block the bag. Place a folded towel inside and form a right angle between the sides, front and back panels, and the bottom, steaming and then stretching raffia with your hands. Fold the Flap slightly towards its WS so that it’s easier to close the bag. Let the bag dry completely before using.

Enjoy!

EXTRAS

BELT

You’ll need:

  • Raffia (yardage depends on the desired belt length)

  • 2.5 mm (US B/1 or C/2) crochet hook

  • Belt buckle to fit 1.2”/3cm wide belt

Finished width: approximately 1.2”/3cm.

Ch 7.
R1: ch 2 (counts as 1sc), sc 6, turn.
Repeat R1 until the desired length + 0.5”/1.25cm.
Last Row: 7 sl st.

Position the buckle on one of the ends, fold the belt by 0.5”/1.25cm, and sew to close.

CROSSBODY HANDLE

You’ll need:

  • Raffia (yardage depends on the desired handle length)

  • 2.5 mm (US B/1 or C/2) crochet hook

Finished width: approximately 1.2”/3cm.

Attach the yarn at the top row of the Right Side of a bag.
R1 (Set Up): 7 sc in 7 stitches of the top row of the Right Side.
R2: ch 2 (counts as 1sc), sc 6, turn.
Repeat R2 until the desired length.
Last Row: sc2tog each stitch of the handle with 7 stitches of the top row of the Left Side of a bag.